Attempted robbery and visit from my boss!
Tamale is usually a peaceful and crime free town but it seems as if a criminal gang have recently moved in. There are thirteen VSO volunteers here and so far 3 of us have been targeted by thieves on motos. Tim and Will have had their lap tops stolen from their shoulders and last week it was my turn to be mugged.
On Sunday we visited Liz, (we came to Ghana together), at a local hotel. Unfortunately she has been very poorly and was passing through Tamale on her way home early with malaria, typhoid and anaemia!
We all ate supper together and I left with Tim at 8.00. As we didn’t manage to get a taxi straightaway we decided to walk. We walked side by side along the main road in the cycle lane that is bordered by a deep storm drain. With no noise, lights or warning a thief on a moto drove between me and the storm drain and grabbed the bag from my shoulder. Instinctively I hung on tight and….. ….the strap broke leaving me shaken but holding my bag!
A taxi picked us up and took us home safely but I spent a restless night. I have since reported it to the police who say we should stay home at night. Others including my work colleagues, locals and taxi drivers say we should have shouted and then the thieves would have been killed. I though this was just exaggeration but was assured by all that instant justice is very effective and a good deterrent! It does happen; so thieves take a big risk. It’s a real concern as there have also been 6 robberies among the Dutch volunteers, one with violence. In future I shall carry a ‘decoy’ shoulder bag with my valuables in a concealed money belt and avoid being out after dark; which means home before 6.30.
Visit from my boss
My programme officer, Patience, arrived from Accra for my assessment meeting last week. I asked Asma the Kanvilli head and the circuit supervisor to attend and we had a very productive meeting. I now have lots of thinking to do and forms to fill in before the meeting in Accra at the end of my placement.
VSO are trialling the use of short term headteacher volunteers and we had a useful discussion on what to do next time; ideas included heads having their own moto, training teachers during the holidays and providing the necessary funding for the training. At the moment all photocopying, refreshments and other training expenses are paid for by me.
(As I sit on the veranda this Sunday writing I can see the guinea fowl flock which have just arrived to graze our garden)
One of the delights of being here is just watching all the animals, the cows, goats, sheep, chicken and guinea fowl wandering though the villages and gardens while they search for food. They all seem to find their way home at night where they are given water and very few of them are run over when they amble across the busy road. I’m not quite so keen on the stray dogs that raid our rubbish pit.
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
Wednesday, 11 March 2009
Kanvilli Presby Marches
The school looked so smart as they marched past us managing to keep their eyes straight ahead.
I was so proud of them
Arrival of the chiefs
The chiefs are a very important political and social force. They are very powerful. Here they arrive at the parade with geat ceremony from their supporters.
Independence Day
March 6th
Independence Day
Every child in Ghana knows that Independence Day is 6th March; they sing this as part of their morning routine. They also all recite their pledge with their hand on their heart; a powerful way of reinforcing their pride in their national identity.
National Pledge
I promise on my honour
To be faithful and loyal to Ghana my Motherland
I pledge myself to the service of Ghana.
With all my strength and with all my heart
I promise to hold in high esteem
Our heritage, won for us through the blood
and toil of our fathers;
And, I pledge myself in all things
To uphold and defend the good name of Ghana.
So help me God
March 6th is a public holiday; marked by parades and a public reflection in the press of how much has been achieved in the last 52 years together with the challenges ahead. Britain ruled Ghana for about 60 years and has been independent now for 52 years. I am still often introduced to classes as a headteacher from Britain ‘they used to be our colonial masters’ the tem makes me feel uncomfortable but seems to be used as a term of affection.
was thrilled when Kanvilli Presby (the school I have been most closely working with) was chosen to march in the parade.
I met the HT, Asesumawu, at Jubilee Park at 7.00am. Quite an early start for me! We assembled the excited children, chosen both for their marching prowess and to represent each class. Teachers, Robert and Moona, were also there to march with the children. They all looked very smart and wore white gloves for the occasion.
The parade ground was spotless and had been sprayed by the Fire Brigade to keep the dust down; even so I was covered in a thick layer of brown dust when I arrived home.
The Anniversary parade started promptly at 8.00 in the presence of the new Regional Minister A splendid military band led the military and police contingents march on parade. This was followed by the colourful arrival of the Chiefs (a very important political and social group). Their cars drove onto the parade ground covered with their followers; drumming, singing, crouching in homage and swirling enormous ceremonial umbrellas. Wonderful!
There were speeches and awards, followed by a march past that included the chosen schools. Although the ceremony finished at 10.30it was still a long very hot wait for all the participants. The First Aiders were kept busy with their stretchers.
Afterwards the town was thronged with people but I made my escape to recover in an air conditioned restaurant.
Independence Day
Every child in Ghana knows that Independence Day is 6th March; they sing this as part of their morning routine. They also all recite their pledge with their hand on their heart; a powerful way of reinforcing their pride in their national identity.
National Pledge
I promise on my honour
To be faithful and loyal to Ghana my Motherland
I pledge myself to the service of Ghana.
With all my strength and with all my heart
I promise to hold in high esteem
Our heritage, won for us through the blood
and toil of our fathers;
And, I pledge myself in all things
To uphold and defend the good name of Ghana.
So help me God
March 6th is a public holiday; marked by parades and a public reflection in the press of how much has been achieved in the last 52 years together with the challenges ahead. Britain ruled Ghana for about 60 years and has been independent now for 52 years. I am still often introduced to classes as a headteacher from Britain ‘they used to be our colonial masters’ the tem makes me feel uncomfortable but seems to be used as a term of affection.
was thrilled when Kanvilli Presby (the school I have been most closely working with) was chosen to march in the parade.
I met the HT, Asesumawu, at Jubilee Park at 7.00am. Quite an early start for me! We assembled the excited children, chosen both for their marching prowess and to represent each class. Teachers, Robert and Moona, were also there to march with the children. They all looked very smart and wore white gloves for the occasion.
The parade ground was spotless and had been sprayed by the Fire Brigade to keep the dust down; even so I was covered in a thick layer of brown dust when I arrived home.
The Anniversary parade started promptly at 8.00 in the presence of the new Regional Minister A splendid military band led the military and police contingents march on parade. This was followed by the colourful arrival of the Chiefs (a very important political and social group). Their cars drove onto the parade ground covered with their followers; drumming, singing, crouching in homage and swirling enormous ceremonial umbrellas. Wonderful!
There were speeches and awards, followed by a march past that included the chosen schools. Although the ceremony finished at 10.30it was still a long very hot wait for all the participants. The First Aiders were kept busy with their stretchers.
Afterwards the town was thronged with people but I made my escape to recover in an air conditioned restaurant.
Daily Life
Daily Life
How do I spend my weekends?
This Friday evening we ate at home and then met two new volunteers for a drink and a chat at the ‘King David’ spot. They bought with them some American friends who had interesting tales to tell. They had been camping and hiking in Burkina Faso and also been to the African film festival in Ouagadougou. Burkina Faso is extremely poor, probably one of the three poorest countries in the world. Their guide had taken them back to stay at his small village and they had bought rice (an unaffordable luxury) for the whole community. They had slept outside under the stars and many people had come to welcome them. Their guide had been the first to be educated in his village. He had had to walk the daily 12 mile round trip to go to school; through his passion for education and determination he had mobilised the villagers and had raised enough money to build a school within the village with dormitory huts where the pupils could sleep if they lived far away. Don and Kerry had promised to do what they could to help and also send much needed clothing. It was such an interesting evening and meeting new people is one of the pleasures of being here.
On Saturday I got up early and cycled down to talk to the local carpenter to discuss moving the frame for my mosquito net. He sent his apprentice who managed to move the frame onto the new bed, change the curtains and mattress and hang pictures. I now have a new and hopefully cooler bedroom. It had been Kim’s room but she’s returned to Wales. My original room was south facing and always very hot. Everything was hot, the walls, my face cream, my books, everything! It was at the front of the house so I was always woken up at 5.30 when the jogging club went by shouting and drumming! It was bliss to wake up on Sunday slightly cooler and to look out onto the trees of the back garden. I spent the rest of Saturday sorting out my new room and writing and posting my blog.
I also caught up with my washing. No machine of course. I hand washed sheets, towels and clothes in various buckets of water. It all dried quickly on the line and then needed ironing. Everything dried outside needs thorough ironing to kill any eggs laid in the damp material by parasitic flies. If the eggs are not killed then the larva hatches and burrows into your skin. It lives there under a raised spot until it breaks out as a fully formed fly! Which horror film borrowed that idea? Signs to look for are a raised spot with an off centre mark. If you find one of these you need to smother the larva by covering the spot with Vaseline. Then when it’s dead you remove it. Needless to say I press my clothes with a very hot iron.
March is such a very hot month!
At 4.30p.m today the temperature was 40C in the shade and 45Cin the sun! It only drops a few degrees in the evening. No wonder I am so hot after I cycle home from school. The heat is completely exhausting and, although I long for a brisk walk, any kind of exercise is out of the question unless it is at dawn, so on Sunday I went swimming with friends.
The one public swimming pool in Tamale is run by the River Volta Authority and is quite close to where we live. I splashed out 2 cedis on a ‘drop off taxi’ which meant the other passengers had to get out when my road diverged from theirs! Flora, Rona, Paul and I spent a really lovely afternoon swimming, picnicking and singing to Flora’s guitar (very 60s). By the afternoon it was standing room only in the pool and although the pool was very warm it still cooled me down a little. Fred took me home on his motor bike. It was a great end to the weekend and I have a new Islamic school to look forward to visiting on Monday.
Food
Unless we eat out, our food usually involves frozen chicken pieces, tinned tuna or corned beef flavoured with herbs and chillies and served with pasta or rice. It is the season for potatoes now but yam is a very good substitute- I particularly like deep fried yam chips!
I haven’t been brave enough to buy beef yet. The butchers slaughter the cattle early in the morning and its then on sale. There are huge slabs of beef in the market or on stalls beside the road; often with the large horned white heads and white feet of the cows arranged elegantly on a nearby table.
I really enjoy Ghanaian food and had lunch at the Goil petrol station restaurant last week. I chose banku (fermented millet) fried fish and okra soup. The okra soup must be an acquired taste because it was just too slimy for me. The waiter said I couldn’t possibly eat it without something moist so he gave me a hot pepe sauce which was much better. I ate it like the locals with my right hand; a sensible way of eating fish as you can feel the bones. A finger bowl and washing up liquid is provided for the clean up. The children at school love TZ and fufu so I must try them before I come home. The portions are huge so sometimes we have one meal and two plates.
The fruit here is a real bonus it’s so delicious and, like the vegetables, is seasonal. Mangos, avocados, tomatoes, oranges, pineapples and pawpaw are in season at the moment so I chose the right time to come to Ghana.
How do I spend my weekends?
This Friday evening we ate at home and then met two new volunteers for a drink and a chat at the ‘King David’ spot. They bought with them some American friends who had interesting tales to tell. They had been camping and hiking in Burkina Faso and also been to the African film festival in Ouagadougou. Burkina Faso is extremely poor, probably one of the three poorest countries in the world. Their guide had taken them back to stay at his small village and they had bought rice (an unaffordable luxury) for the whole community. They had slept outside under the stars and many people had come to welcome them. Their guide had been the first to be educated in his village. He had had to walk the daily 12 mile round trip to go to school; through his passion for education and determination he had mobilised the villagers and had raised enough money to build a school within the village with dormitory huts where the pupils could sleep if they lived far away. Don and Kerry had promised to do what they could to help and also send much needed clothing. It was such an interesting evening and meeting new people is one of the pleasures of being here.
On Saturday I got up early and cycled down to talk to the local carpenter to discuss moving the frame for my mosquito net. He sent his apprentice who managed to move the frame onto the new bed, change the curtains and mattress and hang pictures. I now have a new and hopefully cooler bedroom. It had been Kim’s room but she’s returned to Wales. My original room was south facing and always very hot. Everything was hot, the walls, my face cream, my books, everything! It was at the front of the house so I was always woken up at 5.30 when the jogging club went by shouting and drumming! It was bliss to wake up on Sunday slightly cooler and to look out onto the trees of the back garden. I spent the rest of Saturday sorting out my new room and writing and posting my blog.
I also caught up with my washing. No machine of course. I hand washed sheets, towels and clothes in various buckets of water. It all dried quickly on the line and then needed ironing. Everything dried outside needs thorough ironing to kill any eggs laid in the damp material by parasitic flies. If the eggs are not killed then the larva hatches and burrows into your skin. It lives there under a raised spot until it breaks out as a fully formed fly! Which horror film borrowed that idea? Signs to look for are a raised spot with an off centre mark. If you find one of these you need to smother the larva by covering the spot with Vaseline. Then when it’s dead you remove it. Needless to say I press my clothes with a very hot iron.
March is such a very hot month!
At 4.30p.m today the temperature was 40C in the shade and 45Cin the sun! It only drops a few degrees in the evening. No wonder I am so hot after I cycle home from school. The heat is completely exhausting and, although I long for a brisk walk, any kind of exercise is out of the question unless it is at dawn, so on Sunday I went swimming with friends.
The one public swimming pool in Tamale is run by the River Volta Authority and is quite close to where we live. I splashed out 2 cedis on a ‘drop off taxi’ which meant the other passengers had to get out when my road diverged from theirs! Flora, Rona, Paul and I spent a really lovely afternoon swimming, picnicking and singing to Flora’s guitar (very 60s). By the afternoon it was standing room only in the pool and although the pool was very warm it still cooled me down a little. Fred took me home on his motor bike. It was a great end to the weekend and I have a new Islamic school to look forward to visiting on Monday.
Food
Unless we eat out, our food usually involves frozen chicken pieces, tinned tuna or corned beef flavoured with herbs and chillies and served with pasta or rice. It is the season for potatoes now but yam is a very good substitute- I particularly like deep fried yam chips!
I haven’t been brave enough to buy beef yet. The butchers slaughter the cattle early in the morning and its then on sale. There are huge slabs of beef in the market or on stalls beside the road; often with the large horned white heads and white feet of the cows arranged elegantly on a nearby table.
I really enjoy Ghanaian food and had lunch at the Goil petrol station restaurant last week. I chose banku (fermented millet) fried fish and okra soup. The okra soup must be an acquired taste because it was just too slimy for me. The waiter said I couldn’t possibly eat it without something moist so he gave me a hot pepe sauce which was much better. I ate it like the locals with my right hand; a sensible way of eating fish as you can feel the bones. A finger bowl and washing up liquid is provided for the clean up. The children at school love TZ and fufu so I must try them before I come home. The portions are huge so sometimes we have one meal and two plates.
The fruit here is a real bonus it’s so delicious and, like the vegetables, is seasonal. Mangos, avocados, tomatoes, oranges, pineapples and pawpaw are in season at the moment so I chose the right time to come to Ghana.
Saturday, 7 March 2009
Wednesday, 4 March 2009
Street Children
March 4th
‘Street Children- do not despise them’
These sad words are written on a huge hoarding in the centre of Tamale to try to change the attitudes of local people. But just imagine- you are a child, alone, possibly abandoned by your parents and now also despised by the people around you. When I go into the central market in Tamale I see wary, shabby children selling fruit, trying to earn money when they should be in school or in the heart of a family.
This week ‘The Chronicle’ paper highlighted the plight of such children. According to the paper there are nearly 4000 street children in the Tamale Metropolis. Boys and girls from the ages of 5 to 18 who sleep on pavements or at the main lorry station with homeless adults. Nobody cares if they eat, sleep or have access to health care. In addition local people feel that the lack of family support makes the children a threat and so they in turn intimidate and harass the children. According to the report most would like to go to school. This is impossible as they have to earn their living and, although education is free in Ghana, parents are expected to provide books, pens, pencils and uniform and food to be eaten at school. All this is out of reach if you live on the streets.
On a more positive note the Tamale ‘Youth Idleness Control Centre’ has pledged to provide skills training for as many children as possible. There are also different charities that try to help these vulnerable children including ‘Street Child Africa’. This charity led a powerful assembly during our ‘Black African Week’ and explained that as the children cannot come to school, the school comes to them on the streets and street corners of the cities of Ghana.
Our school raised £2000 for them and I can now see for myself just how desperately that money is needed.
‘Street Children- do not despise them’
These sad words are written on a huge hoarding in the centre of Tamale to try to change the attitudes of local people. But just imagine- you are a child, alone, possibly abandoned by your parents and now also despised by the people around you. When I go into the central market in Tamale I see wary, shabby children selling fruit, trying to earn money when they should be in school or in the heart of a family.
This week ‘The Chronicle’ paper highlighted the plight of such children. According to the paper there are nearly 4000 street children in the Tamale Metropolis. Boys and girls from the ages of 5 to 18 who sleep on pavements or at the main lorry station with homeless adults. Nobody cares if they eat, sleep or have access to health care. In addition local people feel that the lack of family support makes the children a threat and so they in turn intimidate and harass the children. According to the report most would like to go to school. This is impossible as they have to earn their living and, although education is free in Ghana, parents are expected to provide books, pens, pencils and uniform and food to be eaten at school. All this is out of reach if you live on the streets.
On a more positive note the Tamale ‘Youth Idleness Control Centre’ has pledged to provide skills training for as many children as possible. There are also different charities that try to help these vulnerable children including ‘Street Child Africa’. This charity led a powerful assembly during our ‘Black African Week’ and explained that as the children cannot come to school, the school comes to them on the streets and street corners of the cities of Ghana.
Our school raised £2000 for them and I can now see for myself just how desperately that money is needed.
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